Today at lunch I was sitting with a girl who has been nothing but sweetness to me since I've arrived- she doesn't really speak english so much, so we just smile a lot and she invites me to lunch, etc. And I asked her a question... there is nothing, nothing worse than watching someone, knowing they understood your question, trying to formulate a response. It is the most awkward, horrible embarassing silence ever. And that is why I want to learn Korean, I think. To end that. People are totally willing to communicate within their abilities, if I approach. But when their abilities are not sufficient, I don't want them to feel bad or awkward, it's me that doesn't speak THEIR language, the native tongue of this country. Thus, with the help of my Korean tutor, and the independent study I do, I will master this, or at least get to a point where I can communicate at least reasonably within a month. I have the time, I have the motivation, there's no reason why this won't happen...
hope springs eternal.
Friday, December 22, 2006
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
revision to the last post
ok, I just read that last post, and I'm not editing it, but I do sound like a pouty sucky-baby. I should be endeavouring to communicate with everyone in this country (co-workers included!) in Korean. I'm in Korea after all. That's where the weird conflict comes in though... I've been told by my principal, co-teacher, etc. that I should be speaking only English at the school. They requested specifically a teacher who speaks no Korean, so that everyone's English must improve. Unfortunately I don't know that they took into account that people would just decide not to communicate at all. It's certainly not fair for me to expect people to communicate in a second language just to deal with me, when I barely speak a few words of their first langauge, the language of the country I happen to be working in. It's such a pickle of a situation, I think. I'd be interested to know what anyone else thinks on this one.
What would be fantastic, is if everyone who was in our teaching program had to go through language training when they landed in Korea, or a few months after arriving.
What would be fantastic, is if everyone who was in our teaching program had to go through language training when they landed in Korea, or a few months after arriving.
the terrific-ness that is my schedule for the next 2 months
Ok all you out there in Canadialand, get ready to have some fierce jealously.
My schedule for the next two months is as follows:
Teach for the rest of this week.
Teach two classes next week (Wednesday).
Time off from school until January 2nd.
Teach 3 45-minute periods a day every day for the next month - starting at 9am, finishing by noon. Small classes, too, with no co-teacher, so things will be a bit more relaxed I think.
Time off from school from February 2nd to the 8th or 15th or something.
Teach one full week of classes.
Two weeks vacation (less a day) - Jess arrives and we're off to China! (Beijing and Harbin)...
And then, well, nose back to the grindstone. New school year starts on March 2nd (yes, a Friday).
So, woooo! I plan to use all of my extra time during the next month to do lots of cycling (the weather here is still great for cycling, my only problem is the daylight disappears at 5:30!) And study Korean hardcore. Today I began my mastery of the present tense. I can now make random sentences!
(Really I can only make random sentences if they involve a subject and a verb -- or if they involve a subject, a verb and the preposition "to/in/at".)
But one small leap for Katrina's brain is one giant leap towards actually being able to communicate beyond pointing and naming an object. I hope to master the past and future tenses during the grand amount of free time I have spanning the month of January.
If my schedule is making you _too_ envious, then pause for a moment, because right now I'm up to my eyeballs in work, planning 24 "writing and grammar" lessons. WOOT!
Also of note, most Korean teachers are actually off from school from 28-Dec to sometime in Feb. Winter break.
Strange things encountered today: my most meaningful and longest conversation of the day so far was with two kids in grade three (elementary school). We spoke half in Korean and half in English and got along just fine. Which makes me wonder, if I can communicate with the young'uns like this, why do the teachers at my school rarely speak to me (in any language)? It's not that they're not friendly, they're always smiling and offering me treats and being really nice, but not so much with the conversation, chatting, or, well, speaking. (With the exception of my co-teacher and one other English teacher - yes, even the English department doesn't really speak to me -- unless they're one-on-one and there's no one else around).
Someone asked me if I'm trying to learn Korean so I can communicate better with my co-workers and the answer to that is simply "no". I've been told that I should speak English at school (with few exceptions) and I see no reason why, when I know so much less Korean than (mostly) they know English, I should be putting myself out there to be laughed at for wrong word errors, grammatical flubs and whatever else. And then there's the potential of insulting someone - because Korean's based heavily on "honourifics" -- you conjugate verbs differently if you're talking to kids, equals or superiors... there's also an age thing, and that I'm a waygook (foreigner) makes it all tricky too... I'm learning it so that I can communicate here in general. Meet people, talk to them, a respect thing and also a making-life-easier thing. Am I sounding a bit bitter? I think perhaps. It amazes me how many people miss the idea that language is all about communication and between two interested parties, it doesn't need to be anything else... not an academic exercise, nor a grounds for any kind of judgement.
Ok, I'm off my soapbox now. If you were all here I'd give you hershey's kisses for listening to me. (That's the Christmas treat for the kids in this week's class - candy canes proved impossible to find at Costco in Daegu...)
My schedule for the next two months is as follows:
Teach for the rest of this week.
Teach two classes next week (Wednesday).
Time off from school until January 2nd.
Teach 3 45-minute periods a day every day for the next month - starting at 9am, finishing by noon. Small classes, too, with no co-teacher, so things will be a bit more relaxed I think.
Time off from school from February 2nd to the 8th or 15th or something.
Teach one full week of classes.
Two weeks vacation (less a day) - Jess arrives and we're off to China! (Beijing and Harbin)...
And then, well, nose back to the grindstone. New school year starts on March 2nd (yes, a Friday).
So, woooo! I plan to use all of my extra time during the next month to do lots of cycling (the weather here is still great for cycling, my only problem is the daylight disappears at 5:30!) And study Korean hardcore. Today I began my mastery of the present tense. I can now make random sentences!
(Really I can only make random sentences if they involve a subject and a verb -- or if they involve a subject, a verb and the preposition "to/in/at".)
But one small leap for Katrina's brain is one giant leap towards actually being able to communicate beyond pointing and naming an object. I hope to master the past and future tenses during the grand amount of free time I have spanning the month of January.
If my schedule is making you _too_ envious, then pause for a moment, because right now I'm up to my eyeballs in work, planning 24 "writing and grammar" lessons. WOOT!
Also of note, most Korean teachers are actually off from school from 28-Dec to sometime in Feb. Winter break.
Strange things encountered today: my most meaningful and longest conversation of the day so far was with two kids in grade three (elementary school). We spoke half in Korean and half in English and got along just fine. Which makes me wonder, if I can communicate with the young'uns like this, why do the teachers at my school rarely speak to me (in any language)? It's not that they're not friendly, they're always smiling and offering me treats and being really nice, but not so much with the conversation, chatting, or, well, speaking. (With the exception of my co-teacher and one other English teacher - yes, even the English department doesn't really speak to me -- unless they're one-on-one and there's no one else around).
Someone asked me if I'm trying to learn Korean so I can communicate better with my co-workers and the answer to that is simply "no". I've been told that I should speak English at school (with few exceptions) and I see no reason why, when I know so much less Korean than (mostly) they know English, I should be putting myself out there to be laughed at for wrong word errors, grammatical flubs and whatever else. And then there's the potential of insulting someone - because Korean's based heavily on "honourifics" -- you conjugate verbs differently if you're talking to kids, equals or superiors... there's also an age thing, and that I'm a waygook (foreigner) makes it all tricky too... I'm learning it so that I can communicate here in general. Meet people, talk to them, a respect thing and also a making-life-easier thing. Am I sounding a bit bitter? I think perhaps. It amazes me how many people miss the idea that language is all about communication and between two interested parties, it doesn't need to be anything else... not an academic exercise, nor a grounds for any kind of judgement.
Ok, I'm off my soapbox now. If you were all here I'd give you hershey's kisses for listening to me. (That's the Christmas treat for the kids in this week's class - candy canes proved impossible to find at Costco in Daegu...)
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
green beans and jingle bells
Ok, so today (Monday) I have taught 5 lessons on the Holiday Season (and Christmas) in Canada. I am a bit sick of Christmas. Thank god it doesn't feel at all like Christmas here. Well, it feels a bit like November in Canada... a few decorations, a few Christmas carols, no snow and nippy weather.
That's the "jingle bells" part of this post.
Now for the "green beans" part. So, I have no idea how word travels so quickly at my school but one of my OTHER teachers asked me about the significant quantities of green beans that Rachel and I came back to Ulsan with. Yes, it was a backpack full, but we went to Costco. We're lucky they weren't selling them in 24-packs! And why on earth are my vegetable preferences making it through the grapevine anyways!
Oh well. At least it's not something bad. I mean, I just appear strange, but not psychotic or anything, right?
Also, this week, hershey's kisses instead of stickers for my kids. You should see them move their butts to get stuff done. Wow. Yay chocolate!!
That's the "jingle bells" part of this post.
Now for the "green beans" part. So, I have no idea how word travels so quickly at my school but one of my OTHER teachers asked me about the significant quantities of green beans that Rachel and I came back to Ulsan with. Yes, it was a backpack full, but we went to Costco. We're lucky they weren't selling them in 24-packs! And why on earth are my vegetable preferences making it through the grapevine anyways!
Oh well. At least it's not something bad. I mean, I just appear strange, but not psychotic or anything, right?
Also, this week, hershey's kisses instead of stickers for my kids. You should see them move their butts to get stuff done. Wow. Yay chocolate!!
Saturday, December 16, 2006
the first of many updates to come...
Sorry it's been so long since I've updated this blog. I've been having problems with beta.blogger - it's been crashing things...
Today I went to Daegu with the sole purpose of going to Costco. One of the teachers that I teach with in my middle school, he was kind enough to drive us to Daegu, it's his hometown and he was going there for a wedding on Sunday. I'm pretty sure that he thought we were crazy.
I know it sounds strange that we'd travel to a city an hour and a half away just to go to Costco, and turn around to come straight back, but they have oodles of western stuff - I am now the proud owner of 8 cans of green beans, about 2 kilos of hard cheddar (real cheese!), some salami, 32 oats and honey granola bars, about a kilo o'salsa. And a few other things. When my co-worker was looking through our purchases, he didn't recognize the green beans, salsa etc. etc. so you can see, our trip to Daegu was clearly to obtain elusive western items.
The fun part, as always, was the journey. Car ride was quite fun... my coworker was so kind (and such a gentleman!)
So Rachel and I, we thouroughly enjoyed our Costco shopping (should we buy a 2 year supply of ketchup? no, we can get that in Ulsan... I think people at Costco also must've thought we were nuts, the way we were laughing and exclaiming at things!) Totally unexpectedly, my coworker called (!) and asked if we were done, could he pick us up... and we said, "Sure, we'll take you for dinner! To thank you for driving us to Daegu and to Costco (nowhere near where you're actually heading!)
So my coworker comes to pick us up at Costco (did I mention how awesome he is -- came in and met us at the cash!). Checked out our groceries (green beans? what are those? and why did you buy big jugs of tomato sauce? no not tomato sauce, salsa! and green beans are, well, beans that are green?). And drove us to his 'hood, Dongdaegu (east Daegu). Where we went to an AMERICAN chinese restaurant. You don't understand, sometimes it seems that they only have two types of food in Korea, Korean food and Korean-style foreign food. Which is Korean food, essentially, with foreign names, but Korean ingredients. So, WOOOOOOO! American Chinese food! We totally dug the sweet and sour chicken!
And then, we got into an arguement about the bill. Rachel and I pulled out all the Korean cultural stuff we could (ie. I'm oldest, I should pay... and We invited you out, we should pay...) but it did not work. My coworker thus ended up paying for the dinner that we took him out for, to thank him! Clearly we're going to have to kidnap him and take him for lobster (or as people commonly refer to it here, "robster") or tuna or something...
Dongdaegu is beautiful, the streets are treelined and the city is so lively! I'm not sure how else to describe it but the feeling was just completely different from Ulsan. I am looking forward to going back, but alas, our trip was done, and to the bus station we went. My coworker saw us off (waving at the bus, literally!) and thus almost ends my fantastic day. It actually ended at the WA bar, where I had a few pints with Thomas and a Korean, Ellie, who speaks amazing English. And second high point of the day (first being the awesome trip to Daegu!) was that Ellie has agreed to be my Korean tutor! I will speak this language if it kills me, and she's totally willing to help :-)
So, that's today. After reading that epic, aren't you glad that I don't write every day?
Today I went to Daegu with the sole purpose of going to Costco. One of the teachers that I teach with in my middle school, he was kind enough to drive us to Daegu, it's his hometown and he was going there for a wedding on Sunday. I'm pretty sure that he thought we were crazy.
I know it sounds strange that we'd travel to a city an hour and a half away just to go to Costco, and turn around to come straight back, but they have oodles of western stuff - I am now the proud owner of 8 cans of green beans, about 2 kilos of hard cheddar (real cheese!), some salami, 32 oats and honey granola bars, about a kilo o'salsa. And a few other things. When my co-worker was looking through our purchases, he didn't recognize the green beans, salsa etc. etc. so you can see, our trip to Daegu was clearly to obtain elusive western items.
The fun part, as always, was the journey. Car ride was quite fun... my coworker was so kind (and such a gentleman!)
So Rachel and I, we thouroughly enjoyed our Costco shopping (should we buy a 2 year supply of ketchup? no, we can get that in Ulsan... I think people at Costco also must've thought we were nuts, the way we were laughing and exclaiming at things!) Totally unexpectedly, my coworker called (!) and asked if we were done, could he pick us up... and we said, "Sure, we'll take you for dinner! To thank you for driving us to Daegu and to Costco (nowhere near where you're actually heading!)
So my coworker comes to pick us up at Costco (did I mention how awesome he is -- came in and met us at the cash!). Checked out our groceries (green beans? what are those? and why did you buy big jugs of tomato sauce? no not tomato sauce, salsa! and green beans are, well, beans that are green?). And drove us to his 'hood, Dongdaegu (east Daegu). Where we went to an AMERICAN chinese restaurant. You don't understand, sometimes it seems that they only have two types of food in Korea, Korean food and Korean-style foreign food. Which is Korean food, essentially, with foreign names, but Korean ingredients. So, WOOOOOOO! American Chinese food! We totally dug the sweet and sour chicken!
And then, we got into an arguement about the bill. Rachel and I pulled out all the Korean cultural stuff we could (ie. I'm oldest, I should pay... and We invited you out, we should pay...) but it did not work. My coworker thus ended up paying for the dinner that we took him out for, to thank him! Clearly we're going to have to kidnap him and take him for lobster (or as people commonly refer to it here, "robster") or tuna or something...
Dongdaegu is beautiful, the streets are treelined and the city is so lively! I'm not sure how else to describe it but the feeling was just completely different from Ulsan. I am looking forward to going back, but alas, our trip was done, and to the bus station we went. My coworker saw us off (waving at the bus, literally!) and thus almost ends my fantastic day. It actually ended at the WA bar, where I had a few pints with Thomas and a Korean, Ellie, who speaks amazing English. And second high point of the day (first being the awesome trip to Daegu!) was that Ellie has agreed to be my Korean tutor! I will speak this language if it kills me, and she's totally willing to help :-)
So, that's today. After reading that epic, aren't you glad that I don't write every day?
Thursday, November 30, 2006
a couple of yarns...
So I sucked it up last night, and armed with no less than 6 pages to help me translate fibers and labels, needlesizes and yarn types, I went to the local yarn shop in Hogye. It was a small little deal, probably about the same amount of stock as The Knit Cafe on Queen Street W. in Toronto, but the selection was not nearly so luscious...
After what seemed like hours of hunting, me desparately trying to say "cotton-wool blend" in Korean, and translating Japanese to English I ended up with some great finds... I scored some great mohair blends from Japan, some purple wool from origins unknown and a few balls of pink angora - one of my co-teachers has an adorable baby girl, and after feeling this wool, I knew that a hat (and maybe mittens!) must be made! No cotton-wool blends though, which means that the two sweaters I want to get started on are on-hold indefinitely - until I decide to order yarn online, or find more yarn stores to check out (not an easy task, I'm still not sure how to say the word "knitting"...)
Thank you for staying with me during my knit-tastic digression above. Now for some more digressing. Welcome to Dongmakgol. You must see this movie. I will be sending Jess a copy (subtitles included) so borrow it from her. It's really good - very funny and very sad at times too. About the Korean War, and soldiers who find themselves in a village blissfully unaware of the war.
The book that my elementary school co-teacher gave me is waaaaaay above my level. If anyone knows what " 별이 총총한 한밤충이었어요. " means, please post it in the comments section. I am hoping to move beyond the first line (maybe even onto the second page!) by next Tuesday.
The kimchi post is coming as soon as I can get the photos. I promise.
After what seemed like hours of hunting, me desparately trying to say "cotton-wool blend" in Korean, and translating Japanese to English I ended up with some great finds... I scored some great mohair blends from Japan, some purple wool from origins unknown and a few balls of pink angora - one of my co-teachers has an adorable baby girl, and after feeling this wool, I knew that a hat (and maybe mittens!) must be made! No cotton-wool blends though, which means that the two sweaters I want to get started on are on-hold indefinitely - until I decide to order yarn online, or find more yarn stores to check out (not an easy task, I'm still not sure how to say the word "knitting"...)
Thank you for staying with me during my knit-tastic digression above. Now for some more digressing. Welcome to Dongmakgol. You must see this movie. I will be sending Jess a copy (subtitles included) so borrow it from her. It's really good - very funny and very sad at times too. About the Korean War, and soldiers who find themselves in a village blissfully unaware of the war.
The book that my elementary school co-teacher gave me is waaaaaay above my level. If anyone knows what " 별이 총총한 한밤충이었어요. " means, please post it in the comments section. I am hoping to move beyond the first line (maybe even onto the second page!) by next Tuesday.
The kimchi post is coming as soon as I can get the photos. I promise.
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
another quickie - knitting, korean movies and so much more
Sorry for the lack of posts recently. Have been waiting patiently for a friend to send me the photographic evidence of the Gwangju Kimchi Odessey, but they've not yet arrived.
In the meantime, I've not been getting into much trouble. I spent last weekend at home (well, except for saturday evening). I've watched a gazillion cheesy korean movies (100 days with mr. arrogant, how to keep my love, the art of seduction -- all romantic comedies). Sunflower, which Chris and I went to see at the MegaBox movie theatre downtown (which means NO SUBTITLES) was a pretty standard Korean drama, and I of course cried and cried at the end. How could you not cry when the main character's sister is violently attacked and hospitalized, and his mother's killed by the same evil characters and then his sister (in the hospital still) asks about her mom, and oh! How the main character sat tragically in a burning building, certain death, after avenging the death of his mother and the beating of his sister. And how the sister, years later, has moved on from the deaths of her brother and mother (her entire family), but still remembers... who wouldn't cry? Heartless bastards wouldn't, I suppose. Anyways, pretty standard, but worth the 6,000 won simply for the experience. The look on people's faces to see two waygooks walk into a Korean film! ha ha ha.
The only one that I'd really recommend seeing is Daespo Naughty Girls, which is a totally raunchy and absurd comedy, but it kept me laughing and that's the important thing!
Why have I been watching so many movies? Becuase this weekend was knitting-weekend! Someone's having a baby so a sweater's on the go... someone has feet, so socks are on the go... someone else has feet too, so slippers are (still!) on the go... and so on and so forth...
Oh, and on Friday I totally traumatized myself by going to a knitting store downtown. Everything's different, eh. Needle sizes, yarn terms (of course!), even the types of common yarn! And while I was expecting there to be some English labelling on the yarns themselves, NOPE. What's a girl to do? Besides have an absolutely overwhelmed panic attack and leave the store feeling quite foolish for ever having entered.
However, I will return. With a (freekin') vengance. I will conquer the knitting store and buy (appropriate) yarn if it is the last thing I do in this not-so-vast nation. I am in the process of preparing a 13-page yarn shop resource for myself, including needle size comparison charts, japanese and korean translations for useful words, and how to judge yarn type without using the label. (If any random people want a copy of this epic guide, please don't hesitate to let me know! No one should have to do this much work simply so they can buy some yarn for a hat...)
Oh, more randomness. I decided that I would get a manicure last night, as my gift for surviving Monday (my hardest day). So, off to 또또 hair shop I go (same place I got my hair cut) and besides having the two cutest kids EVER hanging around the whole time, was a wholly pleasant experience... and apparently free! I asked how much, and I was told "service" which means that it's no charge! That's so nice! Clearly I will have to go back and get my hair trimmed next week.
One last thing to say in this not-as-short-as-I-thought posting... my schools (and my coteachers) freakin' rock. The teacher I taught grade 5 with, this was our last week teaching together. I am using the word "teaching" relatively lightly - really I lead games for half the class... I have really enjoyed working with him though, we've had a lot of fun! Anyways, he was so sweet, he bought me a korean book! It's about the moon and the sun and it has a cd with it so that I can practice my korean along with it. I'm hoping actually that I can talk him into helping me with my korean (speaking and listening) in exchange for some english practice time :-)
And that's really all. People are terribly terribly frustrating sometimes, and I feel terribly isolated and lonely sometimes, but it's actually pretty the same when I'm in Canada. I just happen to actually speak the language there, so I can't get away with as much!
I had a dream last night that I was fluent in Korean. Then I woke up. *sob* I will have to work harder at this... I've gotten really lazy.
In the meantime, I've not been getting into much trouble. I spent last weekend at home (well, except for saturday evening). I've watched a gazillion cheesy korean movies (100 days with mr. arrogant, how to keep my love, the art of seduction -- all romantic comedies). Sunflower, which Chris and I went to see at the MegaBox movie theatre downtown (which means NO SUBTITLES) was a pretty standard Korean drama, and I of course cried and cried at the end. How could you not cry when the main character's sister is violently attacked and hospitalized, and his mother's killed by the same evil characters and then his sister (in the hospital still) asks about her mom, and oh! How the main character sat tragically in a burning building, certain death, after avenging the death of his mother and the beating of his sister. And how the sister, years later, has moved on from the deaths of her brother and mother (her entire family), but still remembers... who wouldn't cry? Heartless bastards wouldn't, I suppose. Anyways, pretty standard, but worth the 6,000 won simply for the experience. The look on people's faces to see two waygooks walk into a Korean film! ha ha ha.
The only one that I'd really recommend seeing is Daespo Naughty Girls, which is a totally raunchy and absurd comedy, but it kept me laughing and that's the important thing!
Why have I been watching so many movies? Becuase this weekend was knitting-weekend! Someone's having a baby so a sweater's on the go... someone has feet, so socks are on the go... someone else has feet too, so slippers are (still!) on the go... and so on and so forth...
Oh, and on Friday I totally traumatized myself by going to a knitting store downtown. Everything's different, eh. Needle sizes, yarn terms (of course!), even the types of common yarn! And while I was expecting there to be some English labelling on the yarns themselves, NOPE. What's a girl to do? Besides have an absolutely overwhelmed panic attack and leave the store feeling quite foolish for ever having entered.
However, I will return. With a (freekin') vengance. I will conquer the knitting store and buy (appropriate) yarn if it is the last thing I do in this not-so-vast nation. I am in the process of preparing a 13-page yarn shop resource for myself, including needle size comparison charts, japanese and korean translations for useful words, and how to judge yarn type without using the label. (If any random people want a copy of this epic guide, please don't hesitate to let me know! No one should have to do this much work simply so they can buy some yarn for a hat...)
Oh, more randomness. I decided that I would get a manicure last night, as my gift for surviving Monday (my hardest day). So, off to 또또 hair shop I go (same place I got my hair cut) and besides having the two cutest kids EVER hanging around the whole time, was a wholly pleasant experience... and apparently free! I asked how much, and I was told "service" which means that it's no charge! That's so nice! Clearly I will have to go back and get my hair trimmed next week.
One last thing to say in this not-as-short-as-I-thought posting... my schools (and my coteachers) freakin' rock. The teacher I taught grade 5 with, this was our last week teaching together. I am using the word "teaching" relatively lightly - really I lead games for half the class... I have really enjoyed working with him though, we've had a lot of fun! Anyways, he was so sweet, he bought me a korean book! It's about the moon and the sun and it has a cd with it so that I can practice my korean along with it. I'm hoping actually that I can talk him into helping me with my korean (speaking and listening) in exchange for some english practice time :-)
And that's really all. People are terribly terribly frustrating sometimes, and I feel terribly isolated and lonely sometimes, but it's actually pretty the same when I'm in Canada. I just happen to actually speak the language there, so I can't get away with as much!
I had a dream last night that I was fluent in Korean. Then I woke up. *sob* I will have to work harder at this... I've gotten really lazy.
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
kimchi festival (part 2) - the aftereffects
This is part 2 of a 2-part post. Part 1 will be posted as soon as I can get Chris to send me some of the photos... Chris, Angela and I went to Gwangju for a Kimchi Festival last weekend. Part 2 is going to be short. It is simply to say, when one eats too much kimchi, one may feel very very ill for one or two days. One's body may not know how to process all the fermented cabbage. One may curl up in bed and sleep for 13 hours straight. One may not be able to keep any food or liquid down for a 24-hour period. And remarkably, one may still be able to teach 11 classes over these 2 days. However, one is probably not able to do much else, besides wish they were dead.
That is all.
That is all.
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
investing advice...
I almost forgot to mention this:
www.kiva.org
What is this? It's an organization that facilitates making loans to individuals in developing countries, so that they can start or expand businesses. The loans are quite small (by Canadian standards) - can you imagine going to the bank and saying "Can you lend me $500 so I can double the capacity of my business" in Canada? But all the same, they have a huge impact!
Capacity-building, people, capacity-building. PBS did a doc on the organization, and here's some feedback from some of the lenders: http://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/stories/uganda601/lenders.html
By the way, all you need is a credit card, and something like $25.00, to get the ball rolling.
www.kiva.org
What is this? It's an organization that facilitates making loans to individuals in developing countries, so that they can start or expand businesses. The loans are quite small (by Canadian standards) - can you imagine going to the bank and saying "Can you lend me $500 so I can double the capacity of my business" in Canada? But all the same, they have a huge impact!
Capacity-building, people, capacity-building. PBS did a doc on the organization, and here's some feedback from some of the lenders: http://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/stories/uganda601/lenders.html
By the way, all you need is a credit card, and something like $25.00, to get the ball rolling.
Mrah! Attack of the gulls, and other Busan fun...
Have you seen the Hitchcock film "The Birds"? Cuz, I haven't. Well, I kind of have. I've made three attempts and have yet to be able to sit through the full film. The first time, I was alone. I shut it off at the first appearance of scary attacking birds. The second time, I was with Bryan. We got a bit further into the film before it freaked him out too much (sorry for outing you on this one, Bry!) so we shut it off. Third time, alone again. I got as far as a death and (maybe a hospital room?) and shut it off.
So Liz and I went on a little boat tour of the Oryuk Islands in Busan on Saturday. Our boat was under siege for most of the journey.
So Liz and I went on a little boat tour of the Oryuk Islands in Busan on Saturday. Our boat was under siege for most of the journey.
This situation was not in any way helped by the woman sitting in front of us, who was giving the birds shrimp crackers. Every time they swooped in and dove for a cracker, she'd shout "oh yea". It was almost as if she'd never seen seagulls before.
The islands themselves were beautiful... 
and the cruise was quite fun...
Post-boat cruise, we trucked on over to O'Briens, an ex-pat bar in the downtown area of Busan, where we split a feast of nachos, a burger and fries. Now I know, nachos, not a big deal, but you have to understand that it can be SO hard to find non-Korean food here, even the chinese food and japanese food is "Korean" style. Sometimes, a girl needs her nachos. (LIZ!) That said, I really do like O'Briens, the whole place is so friendly. We ended up shooting some pool (North American-style) with these two guys from Changwon, and in an unrelated conversation I learned a few more variations on how to use the verb 가다 (to go). Wooo! I used it in the cab on the way home (호계동 가추새요) and this seemed to indicate to the cab driver that my fluency level was much higher than it was. Mrahhhh!
Sorry for getting sidetracked. So, 11-11 (Saturday) was Pepero Day (see the posting before this one). And as lovebirds and children gave each other Pepero and other candies, Liz and I did what any good Canucks in a foreign land would do, we started our day in Busan at the UN Memorial Cemetery. The history of the Korean War is amazing - I've been reading up on it since coming here. The idea of the Pusan Perimeter blows my mind. Knowing that so much of this country was destroyed only 50 years ago... as a sidenote, one of the reasons why SPAM is so popular here is because during the war, American soldiers distributed it to Korean citizens... it was a time where there was little food - absolute devistation - SPAM was fantastic! And now, it appears in many (many, many) Korean dishes regularly... I think I can physically see the difference in nutrition, too, this generation of Koreans seems taller than the last, which in turn seems taller than their parents. (of course, my sample group is my neighbourhood...) Sorry, sidetracked again.
Liz has great photos of our time there on her website, as well as some background - so I encourage you to hop on over to her blog and check it out.
Tonight I have a dinner with my fellow "English teachers" at my school here. The last time we went out, it was the "welcome Katrina" lunch and even though they are all ENGLISH teachers(so one would suspect they speak English) my entire "welcome" lunch was in Korean. So I'm not holding my breath on this one, but Wednesday night is the night that us foreign teachers seem to land at the WA Bar and I am looking forward to that :-)
I'm sorry this is so long, but I have one more thing - Friday night, Tom, Chris and I met up with three Korean guys that we'd met before (the restaurant owner and friends...) it was MUCH fun, I left at 2:30am, when they were on their way to norae bang, because I had to get up early the next morning. So fun, and proof that one does not need to be fluent in a lingua franca to have a great time. We all communicated just fine!
Friday, November 10, 2006
pepero day!
Tomorrow, November 11th, is many things. It's Rememberance Day across most of the world. It's my parents' anniversary (I think perhaps their millionth year of marriage? Happy anniversary mom and dad!). And here in Korea, tomorrow, November 11th, is Pepero Day!
What is Pepero, you may ask? Why, it's the Korean version of those chocolate-covered cracker/cookie sticks sold as Pocky in Japan. I did a bit of research to see which came first - and it is indeed Pocky (1966). Peperos weren't sold until 1983.
There is an entire day devoted to Pepero because it's 11-11. Get it? The numbers look like Pepero sticks!!
Seriously. That's the reason. The wisdom of the Lotte marketing department (they're the makers of Pepero, and I swear, half the stuff in Korea!) is astounding.
It's been great subject for "free talking" - I have asked all of my classes about it, and each class has tried to teach me how to say Pepero (빼빼로) properly. (Ironically, we're doing a pronunciation-themed lesson this week!) So far (and much to my surprise) I've received a few boxes of Pepero, but I've been secretly regifting them because I can't eat them. The stores all have huge displays set up and the kids are all walking around with tonnes of Pepero today. I can hardly wait until my next class, in the final period of the day. The kids should be on such a sugar-high...
To read a little more about Pepero Day, visit here.
What is Pepero, you may ask? Why, it's the Korean version of those chocolate-covered cracker/cookie sticks sold as Pocky in Japan. I did a bit of research to see which came first - and it is indeed Pocky (1966). Peperos weren't sold until 1983.
There is an entire day devoted to Pepero because it's 11-11. Get it? The numbers look like Pepero sticks!!
Seriously. That's the reason. The wisdom of the Lotte marketing department (they're the makers of Pepero, and I swear, half the stuff in Korea!) is astounding.It's been great subject for "free talking" - I have asked all of my classes about it, and each class has tried to teach me how to say Pepero (빼빼로) properly. (Ironically, we're doing a pronunciation-themed lesson this week!) So far (and much to my surprise) I've received a few boxes of Pepero, but I've been secretly regifting them because I can't eat them. The stores all have huge displays set up and the kids are all walking around with tonnes of Pepero today. I can hardly wait until my next class, in the final period of the day. The kids should be on such a sugar-high...
To read a little more about Pepero Day, visit here.
Thursday, November 09, 2006
I got a haircut!
This is totally self-indulgent lame posting, but I got a haircut and it's important that I share this with you. Getting a haircut here is kind of like going to Coupe Bizzarre in Toronto, telling the hairdresser to do something fun, closing your eyes and hoping that you don't come out with a euro-mullet. Which happened to me, by the way, the last time I went to Coupe Bizzarre. Getting a haircut here is quite similar. Except it's because my current vocabulary doesn't include the words "long bangs" or "not too short". I went to a place that I walk by on my way home most days. Whenever I walk by, if they're outside, they smile and are friendly. So, to Tto Tto Hair Salon!
I walked in, all bashful smiles, and said "Hair Cut?" while miming my hair being cut, with my fingers as scissors... they smile, welcome me, and it is clear at once that they speak more English than I speak Korean, but barely. It was actually quite fun, because there aren't many wae-gooks (foreigners) around Hogye, so I was totally a novelty. AND I understood some of what they were saying to me in Korean!! Woooo! So, showed her how short, showed her the layers, showed her my bangs, and she looked a bit nervous, but went to work on it.
And voila:
I think I like it, but I'll wait until tomorrow to pass official judgement because lord only knows how it's going to react when I try to style it myself.
I wish I had a before shot (if anyone in Korea has a photo of me with my hair down, please send it over!). All the photos I have of myself, I've got my hair up in pigtails, ponytail, whatever. But it was SO long that it was past my collarbone - for me, that's really superlong.
Oh, best part. I asked how much it was, she told me 7,000 w. Seriously. That's, like, $7.00. For cut, shampoo, dry etc. I had been prepared to pay much more, so I left a generous tip (in Korea, tipping is usually not done, but I explained it is a Canadian custom for a good haircut!)
Another day, another adventure. It's funny how the simplest things have become tasks that I am now proud to have accomplished on my own!
I walked in, all bashful smiles, and said "Hair Cut?" while miming my hair being cut, with my fingers as scissors... they smile, welcome me, and it is clear at once that they speak more English than I speak Korean, but barely. It was actually quite fun, because there aren't many wae-gooks (foreigners) around Hogye, so I was totally a novelty. AND I understood some of what they were saying to me in Korean!! Woooo! So, showed her how short, showed her the layers, showed her my bangs, and she looked a bit nervous, but went to work on it.
And voila:
I think I like it, but I'll wait until tomorrow to pass official judgement because lord only knows how it's going to react when I try to style it myself.
I wish I had a before shot (if anyone in Korea has a photo of me with my hair down, please send it over!). All the photos I have of myself, I've got my hair up in pigtails, ponytail, whatever. But it was SO long that it was past my collarbone - for me, that's really superlong.
Oh, best part. I asked how much it was, she told me 7,000 w. Seriously. That's, like, $7.00. For cut, shampoo, dry etc. I had been prepared to pay much more, so I left a generous tip (in Korea, tipping is usually not done, but I explained it is a Canadian custom for a good haircut!)
Another day, another adventure. It's funny how the simplest things have become tasks that I am now proud to have accomplished on my own!
waiting for the bank
I'm sitting out in front of a convenience store right now, waiting for the Korean Exchange Bank to open... what time do banks open in this country, anyways? I have the morning kind of off work, because the kids are writing exams for the first four periods. I would normally teach periods 1, 2 and 4. So, no classes today... sadly! I am having a lot of fun with this week's lesson, and so are the kids.
Last night, Tom and I were at the WA Bar and we just happened to meet some of the other foreigners here in Hogye! So nice, all hagwon teachers.
OK, best sister ever, lookee what I got in the mail last Friday!
Also, is this not the funniest name for a chocolate bar? Lil Jon and Ciara kickin it with the Crunky chocobar? (the ASTRO BOY figure is from a meal-deal at KFC that Liz got a couple of weeks ago)
Last night, Tom and I were at the WA Bar and we just happened to meet some of the other foreigners here in Hogye! So nice, all hagwon teachers.
OK, best sister ever, lookee what I got in the mail last Friday!
Also, is this not the funniest name for a chocolate bar? Lil Jon and Ciara kickin it with the Crunky chocobar? (the ASTRO BOY figure is from a meal-deal at KFC that Liz got a couple of weeks ago)
Wednesday, November 08, 2006
sorry, it's been a strange week
A lot has happened since I wrote last, but I could be making mountains out of molehills since today is decidedly a "stage 2" day.
The strange things in my life:
1 - electro-therapy on my (L) knee, under some strange sunlamp-like contraption. I couldn't ask questions, but it was very weird and very relaxing. I think it helped?? May go again tonight.
2 - my local grocery store now gives me a discount on any candy I purchase. I buy that much. (this is good, it saved me about 3,000 W on the last candy purchase!)
3 - I was mobbed by grade 5 kids for my autograph after not one, but TWO classes on Tuesday. I couldn't get out of the room, my team-teacher had to help extract me from the situation.
4 - I caused some concern last week, because I was seen *gasp* eating kimbap (김밥) at my desk during lunchtime. When asked about it, I said I didn't feel like eating lunch at the cafeteria because I wasn't very hungry. However, everyone is now super concerned that I don't feel comfortable going to the cafeteria alone and joining a table (which is what everyone does) so they are making sure that I am ALWAYS asked to go for lunch at the cafeteria. Which is great, don't get me wrong, but a bit strange.
5 - I was asked for the millionth time if I "know how to use chopsticks" and if I was "getting used to the spicy food". Trying to explain that I knew how to use chopsticks pre-Korea (thanks Patti!) and that there is spicy food in other outposts of this vast universe is actually a bit moot.
6 - For the first time, I kept a class during the break for 3 whole minutes, and made them put their heads on their desks (thanks for the idea, Liz!) . I don't like that I did that, but they were NOT listening. I warned them, I asked them to be quiet and listen, etc. etc. It makes me mad because 1/2 of the class was paying attention, but the 1/2 that was not was positively horrid. What's worse, is that the lesson we were doing was a lesson that each of the 6 other classes I taught it to this week have had fun with! I really don't know what to do with them.
7 - Chris dislocated his shoulder badly at Hapkido, thus removing the sport from my "to try" list. It looks like it's the Korean version of Tai-Chi that will be my new endevour.
8 - Watched my second Korean movie - "Windstruck". Cried (and by cried, I mean, streaming tears) on-and-off for the last 45 minutes of the movie. But it actually wasn't that good. Sad and sappy, with some moments of brilliance and much missed comic opportunity (the jokes just weren't as funny as they could have been). The foreshadowing was so obvious it gave me a headache but the film was quite well acted. I'm beginning to think I may be a fan of Jang Hyuk may be one of my favourite Korean actors. Then again, I've only seen two films, and he's been in them both.
9 - Back to the knee. Some background info: my (L) knee's been disgruntled since I landed here in Korea. You know me, let things go too long. So I finally went to the doctor, lucked out, saw a specialist right away! Just down the street from me! I have a diagnosis (kind of). But here's the thing. My co-teacher came with me, to help (you know, because I don't speak Korean other than to order a pint, a roll of kimbap or deliver simple phrases). The doctors spoke 1/2 in English, 1/2 in Korean. (English was the medical jargon and names of things - Korean was the rest). So, we have two totally different understandings of my diagnosis. I've decided, I'll live a life of mystery, and not have our understanding of the diagnosis confirmed until I'm done with the physiotherapy.
10 - Really, I'm quite confused. Today, I've been so frustrated and there have been so many "little things" but then people are so nice! How can I be frustrated that people are being nice? And making me really feel like I belong, and that I'm doing things right etc. etc. Maybe I'm just going crazy. Maybe teaching 600 middle school kids (12-14 year olds), in batches of 45, is starting to get to me. Although I really have been having fun with my classes this week!
The strange things in my life:
1 - electro-therapy on my (L) knee, under some strange sunlamp-like contraption. I couldn't ask questions, but it was very weird and very relaxing. I think it helped?? May go again tonight.
2 - my local grocery store now gives me a discount on any candy I purchase. I buy that much. (this is good, it saved me about 3,000 W on the last candy purchase!)
3 - I was mobbed by grade 5 kids for my autograph after not one, but TWO classes on Tuesday. I couldn't get out of the room, my team-teacher had to help extract me from the situation.
4 - I caused some concern last week, because I was seen *gasp* eating kimbap (김밥) at my desk during lunchtime. When asked about it, I said I didn't feel like eating lunch at the cafeteria because I wasn't very hungry. However, everyone is now super concerned that I don't feel comfortable going to the cafeteria alone and joining a table (which is what everyone does) so they are making sure that I am ALWAYS asked to go for lunch at the cafeteria. Which is great, don't get me wrong, but a bit strange.
5 - I was asked for the millionth time if I "know how to use chopsticks" and if I was "getting used to the spicy food". Trying to explain that I knew how to use chopsticks pre-Korea (thanks Patti!) and that there is spicy food in other outposts of this vast universe is actually a bit moot.
6 - For the first time, I kept a class during the break for 3 whole minutes, and made them put their heads on their desks (thanks for the idea, Liz!) . I don't like that I did that, but they were NOT listening. I warned them, I asked them to be quiet and listen, etc. etc. It makes me mad because 1/2 of the class was paying attention, but the 1/2 that was not was positively horrid. What's worse, is that the lesson we were doing was a lesson that each of the 6 other classes I taught it to this week have had fun with! I really don't know what to do with them.
7 - Chris dislocated his shoulder badly at Hapkido, thus removing the sport from my "to try" list. It looks like it's the Korean version of Tai-Chi that will be my new endevour.
8 - Watched my second Korean movie - "Windstruck". Cried (and by cried, I mean, streaming tears) on-and-off for the last 45 minutes of the movie. But it actually wasn't that good. Sad and sappy, with some moments of brilliance and much missed comic opportunity (the jokes just weren't as funny as they could have been). The foreshadowing was so obvious it gave me a headache but the film was quite well acted. I'm beginning to think I may be a fan of Jang Hyuk may be one of my favourite Korean actors. Then again, I've only seen two films, and he's been in them both.
9 - Back to the knee. Some background info: my (L) knee's been disgruntled since I landed here in Korea. You know me, let things go too long. So I finally went to the doctor, lucked out, saw a specialist right away! Just down the street from me! I have a diagnosis (kind of). But here's the thing. My co-teacher came with me, to help (you know, because I don't speak Korean other than to order a pint, a roll of kimbap or deliver simple phrases). The doctors spoke 1/2 in English, 1/2 in Korean. (English was the medical jargon and names of things - Korean was the rest). So, we have two totally different understandings of my diagnosis. I've decided, I'll live a life of mystery, and not have our understanding of the diagnosis confirmed until I'm done with the physiotherapy.
10 - Really, I'm quite confused. Today, I've been so frustrated and there have been so many "little things" but then people are so nice! How can I be frustrated that people are being nice? And making me really feel like I belong, and that I'm doing things right etc. etc. Maybe I'm just going crazy. Maybe teaching 600 middle school kids (12-14 year olds), in batches of 45, is starting to get to me. Although I really have been having fun with my classes this week!
Wednesday, November 01, 2006
quick update
A big THANK YOU to everyone who sent me photos and stuff for my school festival day yesterday (and the displays and decorating I had to do)! The festival was great, I got to meet many grade 2s and 3s, who I don't teach. I also had some down-time, and my laptop with me, so I caught up on the latest episode of Laguna Beach (I know, I know... but I can't help it).
You know, I could just write about all the food experiences I have here? After the festival yesterday, went to a duck restaurant. All duck, all the time. Duck on skewers (cooking surrounded by coals in the table), smoked duck (warming up on the grill in the table). I heart duck. Some days, I do not know how vegetarians survive in this country.
Also, as with any Korean dinner, the soju and beer (and especially soju!) is free-flowing. If you are not familiar with soju, all you really need to know is that it's the "Korean whiskey", or so they insist. It's strong, and it's creeper, and it will give you the hangover from hell.
At these school events though (or really, any time), it's required that if your superiors, elders, etc. etc. offer you a shot of soju, you do the shot, and you pour them a shot. The vice principal, needless to say, must have done a zillion shots - there are over 60 teachers on staff. It was so funny, when he poured a shot for me, all 20 teachers sitting at my table turned their heads to watch me drink... they were fully expecting me to, well, I'm not sure. Maybe for me to spit it back out again, or make a face, something like that...
But I shot it back like a trooper, no reaction at all, and didn't even chase with water (the cardinal rule to lessening the blow of soju). They were SHOCKED. Reputation is quite important here, so I've been very careful about my behaviour around my fellow teachers. I'm always observing those around me - it's how I pick up on the social expectations, cues and such - by carefully watching the other female teachers. There's a real difference between expectations for females and males, I've noticed. So while the female teachers (that I saw) demurely quaffed 1 or 2 shots last night and refused offers of any other alcohol, many of the male teachers were absolutely and completely, without a doubt, intoxicated. That lovely red-and-blotchy-faced, swaying, eyes half-closed hammered. By 6pm at night. Hrm.
Anyways, I watched my first Korean movie last night. I've started taking a much greater interest in Korean films recently (hrm...) and watching BBC's Asian Invasion documentary (Part 3 - Korean Film) has really lit a fire under my butt to see some of these films...
The movie I watched last night was Please Teach Me English, a 2003 comedy about a Korean girl forced to take an English class, where she finds the man of her dreams (who is, of course, not at all interested). Interesting, too, is the idea of needing to learn English, despite not actually living in an English speaking country... The entire thing is set against the backdrop of the EFL class, filled with interesting characters... Yes, absolutely a "cheesy movie Sunday" movie. I really enjoyed it though. Here's a review and synopsis.
You know, I could just write about all the food experiences I have here? After the festival yesterday, went to a duck restaurant. All duck, all the time. Duck on skewers (cooking surrounded by coals in the table), smoked duck (warming up on the grill in the table). I heart duck. Some days, I do not know how vegetarians survive in this country.
Also, as with any Korean dinner, the soju and beer (and especially soju!) is free-flowing. If you are not familiar with soju, all you really need to know is that it's the "Korean whiskey", or so they insist. It's strong, and it's creeper, and it will give you the hangover from hell.
At these school events though (or really, any time), it's required that if your superiors, elders, etc. etc. offer you a shot of soju, you do the shot, and you pour them a shot. The vice principal, needless to say, must have done a zillion shots - there are over 60 teachers on staff. It was so funny, when he poured a shot for me, all 20 teachers sitting at my table turned their heads to watch me drink... they were fully expecting me to, well, I'm not sure. Maybe for me to spit it back out again, or make a face, something like that...
But I shot it back like a trooper, no reaction at all, and didn't even chase with water (the cardinal rule to lessening the blow of soju). They were SHOCKED. Reputation is quite important here, so I've been very careful about my behaviour around my fellow teachers. I'm always observing those around me - it's how I pick up on the social expectations, cues and such - by carefully watching the other female teachers. There's a real difference between expectations for females and males, I've noticed. So while the female teachers (that I saw) demurely quaffed 1 or 2 shots last night and refused offers of any other alcohol, many of the male teachers were absolutely and completely, without a doubt, intoxicated. That lovely red-and-blotchy-faced, swaying, eyes half-closed hammered. By 6pm at night. Hrm.
Anyways, I watched my first Korean movie last night. I've started taking a much greater interest in Korean films recently (hrm...) and watching BBC's Asian Invasion documentary (Part 3 - Korean Film) has really lit a fire under my butt to see some of these films...
The movie I watched last night was Please Teach Me English, a 2003 comedy about a Korean girl forced to take an English class, where she finds the man of her dreams (who is, of course, not at all interested). Interesting, too, is the idea of needing to learn English, despite not actually living in an English speaking country... The entire thing is set against the backdrop of the EFL class, filled with interesting characters... Yes, absolutely a "cheesy movie Sunday" movie. I really enjoyed it though. Here's a review and synopsis.
Monday, October 30, 2006
last night's feast
A couple of weeks ago (the night I bailed on the expat plans and hung out locally - I blogged about wanting to "yogi-yo" rather than be in an English bubble), Tom and I met these great great Korean folks, who invited us to join them at their table for drinks. Turns out they recognized me, I had been to their restaurant for lunch earlier that week, with teachers from my school. The lunch was dolsot bap, one of the traditional and more bland Korean dishes.
These guys invited us to come back to their restaurant, and dreading the dolsot bap, it took us about two weeks to actually get around to going. We went last night. Turned out to be fantastic samgibsal (korean barbeque). We ordered 3 orders of beef, one for each of us (Chris was with us too). Then, deciding that wasn't enough, we got some pork. And they decided to bring us free dolsot bap, too. No word of a lie, there were actually about 25 side dishes laid out on our table, plus the meat and the actual dolsot bap. I do not know how we actually consumed so much food, but we did make a dent, because we didn't want to be rude. Dolsot bap is literally "stone bowl rice". You take the rice out of the stone bowl, and with whatever rice is left in the bowl (burned to the sides of the bowl) you pour some steaming rice water in, put the lid back on and let it steam. This becomes the soup that you finish your meal off with. Interesting, and a taste that I am slowly acquiring... still bordering on very very very bland.
We had the best service ever, they were so happy we came to their restaurant! The owner and his wife looked after us themselves :-) They barely speak any English, but are so so kind. We plan to go back soon - they've told us we will eat for free if we help them with their English! Regardless, the beef barbeque was AMAZING. Reason enough to return, even if the owners hadn't been so sweet!
Have I mentioned that Koreans are the kindest people ever?
I took pictures with my phone, but they got messed up, didn't save properly. Sorry! Next time...
Tomorrow is a "school festival" so I've spent the last 6 hours preparing posters and such "all about Canada". Amazing, getting all "Canadian" has not made me homesick at all... just excited to share this stuff with the students and with my colleagues.
And a side note about the photocopy guy at school - he is totally my new best friend! We now have a secret language that involves a lot of signals, gestures, smiles and bowing. Woooo!
These guys invited us to come back to their restaurant, and dreading the dolsot bap, it took us about two weeks to actually get around to going. We went last night. Turned out to be fantastic samgibsal (korean barbeque). We ordered 3 orders of beef, one for each of us (Chris was with us too). Then, deciding that wasn't enough, we got some pork. And they decided to bring us free dolsot bap, too. No word of a lie, there were actually about 25 side dishes laid out on our table, plus the meat and the actual dolsot bap. I do not know how we actually consumed so much food, but we did make a dent, because we didn't want to be rude. Dolsot bap is literally "stone bowl rice". You take the rice out of the stone bowl, and with whatever rice is left in the bowl (burned to the sides of the bowl) you pour some steaming rice water in, put the lid back on and let it steam. This becomes the soup that you finish your meal off with. Interesting, and a taste that I am slowly acquiring... still bordering on very very very bland.
We had the best service ever, they were so happy we came to their restaurant! The owner and his wife looked after us themselves :-) They barely speak any English, but are so so kind. We plan to go back soon - they've told us we will eat for free if we help them with their English! Regardless, the beef barbeque was AMAZING. Reason enough to return, even if the owners hadn't been so sweet!
Have I mentioned that Koreans are the kindest people ever?
I took pictures with my phone, but they got messed up, didn't save properly. Sorry! Next time...
Tomorrow is a "school festival" so I've spent the last 6 hours preparing posters and such "all about Canada". Amazing, getting all "Canadian" has not made me homesick at all... just excited to share this stuff with the students and with my colleagues.
And a side note about the photocopy guy at school - he is totally my new best friend! We now have a secret language that involves a lot of signals, gestures, smiles and bowing. Woooo!
Sunday, October 29, 2006
I (accidentally) climbed a huge mountain...
So yesterday, I was planning to take it easy, go out to see Paraeso, a waterfall in the mountains in Southern Ulsan. (clear across the city from my place)
We ended up in Eonyang, the part of the city where we could catch the bus to the waterfall - and found out that there was no way to get to Paraeso, unless we wanted to "climb (Mt.) Sinbulsan, go across the mountain ridge, down the other side, and hike for about an hour..." - or we could have taken a very expensive cab. We decided to cheap-out and climb the mountain.
Now, you know that I don't pay attention to details sometimes, especially when I'm hatching a hair-brained scheme... these are the details I now know about Sinbulsan:
- it is one of the 100 Most Beautiful Mountains in Korea, selected by the Korea Forest Service (in a country that is 70% mountains, that means something)
- it is the second tallest mountain in Ulsan
- it is 1,209m
After hiking for about a kilometer, we did get to see a waterfall. It wasn't Paraeso, but...
If only we had realized at this point that the grade of this waterfall is not dissimilar to the grade of much of our upcoming hike! (ok, I'm exaggerating a bit)
Anyways, the hike was beautiful, steep, and at times a bit techincal for the likes of me. This was my first time using ropes to climb a mountain (the ropes were in place and secured on the trail). There were a couple of moments where it was absolutely concerning, I will admit... I paused for a moment while climbing up this vertical sheer rock face (is that what it's called? it was like climbing a wall that had no footholds, just holding onto a rope to pull yourself up). Bad idea. Do not pause and look down when you've got two feet planted flat on a 90-degree vertical sheet of rock, with no harness or safety equipment whatsoever. Talk about a moment of terror - the only thing keeping me from falling off the mountain was my grip on that rope...
This photo kind of shows the ropes, a random hiker is about to decend. Doesn't really show the steepness of the decent though!
Long story short, two out of the three of us made it to the summit (?) and sat on the rocks up top, just taking it all in. (The third decided to hang back(!) deciding the last part of the climb was too tricky/steep)
Here's footage from the top of the mountain:
beautiful, eh? Took us about 5 hours, up and down, but we weren't exactly speedy. When we finally got back to Ulsan (downtown) we ended up going for Indian food (!). It was quite good, but somehow not the same... and pints at mackenzies etc. Chris came down to meet Mark and I at mackenzies - it turns out he was climbing a "really f@ck%ng big" mountain, at the same time as we were, and funny thing here, it was a different side of the same mountain that Mark, Alex and I climbed. Ha ha ha. Clearly we all deserved beer. What Chris did not mention is that he'd hit the soju with his co-climbers before coming to meet up with us, which made for an amusing night for all. Somehow we all ended up at the WA bar, back in Hogye... somehow, we always do...
So much for taking it easy. Today, I'm only leaving the house to go out for dinner.
We ended up in Eonyang, the part of the city where we could catch the bus to the waterfall - and found out that there was no way to get to Paraeso, unless we wanted to "climb (Mt.) Sinbulsan, go across the mountain ridge, down the other side, and hike for about an hour..." - or we could have taken a very expensive cab. We decided to cheap-out and climb the mountain.
Now, you know that I don't pay attention to details sometimes, especially when I'm hatching a hair-brained scheme... these are the details I now know about Sinbulsan:
- it is one of the 100 Most Beautiful Mountains in Korea, selected by the Korea Forest Service (in a country that is 70% mountains, that means something)
- it is the second tallest mountain in Ulsan
- it is 1,209m
After hiking for about a kilometer, we did get to see a waterfall. It wasn't Paraeso, but...
If only we had realized at this point that the grade of this waterfall is not dissimilar to the grade of much of our upcoming hike! (ok, I'm exaggerating a bit)
Anyways, the hike was beautiful, steep, and at times a bit techincal for the likes of me. This was my first time using ropes to climb a mountain (the ropes were in place and secured on the trail). There were a couple of moments where it was absolutely concerning, I will admit... I paused for a moment while climbing up this vertical sheer rock face (is that what it's called? it was like climbing a wall that had no footholds, just holding onto a rope to pull yourself up). Bad idea. Do not pause and look down when you've got two feet planted flat on a 90-degree vertical sheet of rock, with no harness or safety equipment whatsoever. Talk about a moment of terror - the only thing keeping me from falling off the mountain was my grip on that rope...
This photo kind of shows the ropes, a random hiker is about to decend. Doesn't really show the steepness of the decent though!
Long story short, two out of the three of us made it to the summit (?) and sat on the rocks up top, just taking it all in. (The third decided to hang back(!) deciding the last part of the climb was too tricky/steep)
Here's footage from the top of the mountain:
beautiful, eh? Took us about 5 hours, up and down, but we weren't exactly speedy. When we finally got back to Ulsan (downtown) we ended up going for Indian food (!). It was quite good, but somehow not the same... and pints at mackenzies etc. Chris came down to meet Mark and I at mackenzies - it turns out he was climbing a "really f@ck%ng big" mountain, at the same time as we were, and funny thing here, it was a different side of the same mountain that Mark, Alex and I climbed. Ha ha ha. Clearly we all deserved beer. What Chris did not mention is that he'd hit the soju with his co-climbers before coming to meet up with us, which made for an amusing night for all. Somehow we all ended up at the WA bar, back in Hogye... somehow, we always do...
So much for taking it easy. Today, I'm only leaving the house to go out for dinner.
Friday, October 27, 2006
traditional dress
A quick photo of Liz and I in traditional dress - taken during Chusok, when I was "vacationing" in Gimhae. (I am not sure a less flattering angle is possible, but whatevs)
comments
Sorry about the "comments" problems, I'm still trying to figure this whole blogging thing out - and I think I accidentally switched something off or changed a setting yesterday. I don't know, because when I log on at work, blogger is entirely in Korean. (I am used to this, all of the programs on my work computer are entirely in Korean, of course!)
Now that I've cracked the mystery of my kids conversation class, it's rockin'. I cannot tell you how happy this makes me, I literally felt sick with dread every time I had this class, because I couldn't figure out the right mix of stuff, and the activities I had thought would be fun, they hated (and vice versa). We talked about our families yesterday and I wanted to bring photos, but the only photos that I had access to (on my work computer) were the ones online from Vegas... (here are a few photos for those who haven't seen them ). Um, Jess, Bry, those photos of us were completely unusable. Just visit the album, you'll see what I mean...
This weekend, I think I will be at home convalescing, so you can look forward to some more updates with photos, including "katrina's first six weeks in korea, part 2" and stuff on the nukes, and korean culture...
Now that I've cracked the mystery of my kids conversation class, it's rockin'. I cannot tell you how happy this makes me, I literally felt sick with dread every time I had this class, because I couldn't figure out the right mix of stuff, and the activities I had thought would be fun, they hated (and vice versa). We talked about our families yesterday and I wanted to bring photos, but the only photos that I had access to (on my work computer) were the ones online from Vegas... (here are a few photos for those who haven't seen them ). Um, Jess, Bry, those photos of us were completely unusable. Just visit the album, you'll see what I mean...
This weekend, I think I will be at home convalescing, so you can look forward to some more updates with photos, including "katrina's first six weeks in korea, part 2" and stuff on the nukes, and korean culture...
Thursday, October 26, 2006
a new cold (some comfort food) and a new friend
I have a cold. I am low-energy and have a sore throat. I am sniffly and surpressing the urge to whine, whine, whine. I may look up some phrases so I can whine in Korean. Teaching, with low-energy and a sore throat is not fun. I am not the only one who's sick though - Tom's had this cold for the last month. (I suspect that I either got this thing from him, or from Liz - thanks guys!)
Anyways, Tom and I went for some comfort food last night... all the way downtown to a fantastic little tuna place he had discovered about a month ago. Since yesterday was pay-day (in theory) we splurged a bit - 30,000 won each - and ate the most wonderful fish (both raw and cooked). The presentation alone was spectacular (sorry, no photos) and it was one of those meals where, every time you think it's over, there's something else that appears. Raw tuna (different parts of the tuna) and swordfish, tuna cooked in bulgolgi sauce, tuna cooked in another way, miso soup, potato pancakes, japanese salad... each item served individually, not once were two items served at the same time! A nice, three hour meal.
And a new friend... well, not really, but a teacher who speaks excellent English (he's an English teacher, who I actually teach with!) who has been, well, a bit less than friendly with me for the last few weeks. Do you know how frustrating that is, to have someone who speaks English so well, not want to talk to you? Well, frustrated no more, I have somehow won him over. I am not really sure how I accomplished this feat, but he's smiling like mad at me every time he sees me, and is friendly and joking around all of a sudden. I think something happened where he's not afraid to speak English with me anymore. Who knows what... but now, its unstoppable - I'm hearing all about everything! That's freakin' fantastic (although truth be told, I'm not so much of a baseball fan).
And on the subject of "afraid to speak English with me", I'm becoming pretty skilled at recognizing the look of terror in peoples' eyes (omg, here she comes, will I have to speak English with her?) and I can honestly say, it is reducing significantly. I do try korean every so often, but I really don't know enough for any meaningful communication...
Anyways, off for a nap in the teachers' sleeping room. (yes, we have a room dedicated to sleeping)
Anyways, Tom and I went for some comfort food last night... all the way downtown to a fantastic little tuna place he had discovered about a month ago. Since yesterday was pay-day (in theory) we splurged a bit - 30,000 won each - and ate the most wonderful fish (both raw and cooked). The presentation alone was spectacular (sorry, no photos) and it was one of those meals where, every time you think it's over, there's something else that appears. Raw tuna (different parts of the tuna) and swordfish, tuna cooked in bulgolgi sauce, tuna cooked in another way, miso soup, potato pancakes, japanese salad... each item served individually, not once were two items served at the same time! A nice, three hour meal.
And a new friend... well, not really, but a teacher who speaks excellent English (he's an English teacher, who I actually teach with!) who has been, well, a bit less than friendly with me for the last few weeks. Do you know how frustrating that is, to have someone who speaks English so well, not want to talk to you? Well, frustrated no more, I have somehow won him over. I am not really sure how I accomplished this feat, but he's smiling like mad at me every time he sees me, and is friendly and joking around all of a sudden. I think something happened where he's not afraid to speak English with me anymore. Who knows what... but now, its unstoppable - I'm hearing all about everything! That's freakin' fantastic (although truth be told, I'm not so much of a baseball fan).
And on the subject of "afraid to speak English with me", I'm becoming pretty skilled at recognizing the look of terror in peoples' eyes (omg, here she comes, will I have to speak English with her?) and I can honestly say, it is reducing significantly. I do try korean every so often, but I really don't know enough for any meaningful communication...
Anyways, off for a nap in the teachers' sleeping room. (yes, we have a room dedicated to sleeping)
Saturday, October 21, 2006
one down, eleven to go!
According to the tourism literature, Ulsan has 12 scenic sights that every tourist MUST see. So, I have decided it is my mission to see all 12 scenic sights by the end of my contract. That's one scenic sight a month. I'm a bit behind schedule, as I finially made it to my first one yesterday afternoon. (I thought I'd been to one earlier, the black pebble beach at jeongja coast, but it turns out I was actually at sinmyeong coast...).
Gigi (the mountain bike) and I headed out to Dong-gu, where the Daewangam Songnim (pine forest) is located... it's about 15km south of my place, if you don't get lost. The pine forest was absolutely beautiful, and since I was taking my photos during the magic hour, they are all pretty darned good. (I will not subject you to all 70 photos that I took). Needless to say, in the middle of this heavily industrialized coast, (hyundai heavy industries - one of the most major shipbuilding yards in the world, with the biggest cranes EVER - actually kind of surrounds the pine forest, if you look at a map), there is a breathtaking pine forest. No, not breathtaking because of the pollution. Because of its beauty. Before we get to the beauty, Hyundai heavy industries, which I biked by for, oh, say a kilometer or two (at least).
Here's the actual proof that I made it to one of the 12 scenic sights of Ulsan - and I'm not just faking these shots or something! This sign essentially says that this was an important area in the Silla dynasty, and that kings would spend quality time hanging out here. Also, that the view from the point is the second best view of the East Sea in Korea. (it did not say who ranked it as the second best)
Now, before actually getting to this sign, I went through this small little area of food kiosks and super old-school cheesy fall-fair type stuff, like what's in this photo:
okee, time to see the beoootiful pine forest and the sea! (and hyundai heavy industries - a different campus than in the photograph above)
and trees, trees, trees!
After (b/h)iking through the forest for a bit, I came upon this classic (and huge!) example of the "workout stations" that are everywhere here in Korea.
This stuff all looks very bizarro when you first happen upon it, but it's SO much fun! (I am forbidden to use any of this stuff though - a lot of it is flexibility stuff so because my joints are pretty loose and hyperflexible, if I use it, weird things happen - have happened - like I hyperextend my elbows - something I do sometimes when I bike, too, believe it or not! - or my knee gets really slippery and slidey). Here's a shot of Liz and Chris using one, when we were hiking up a mountain:
The views were absolutely amazing from the pine forest! And the rocks were fascinating, so smooth, and dotted with people fishing (I don't know that I'd trust any fish caught that close to the Hyundai plants but whatever).
(me on the bridge, with Gigi) - did I mention that everyone who cycles here wears pretty hi-tech cycling clothes with really sweet gear? It's really funny, my first time on the trail, I was so impressed that there were all these seemingly hardcore cyclists, and there's me in my skirt and t-shirt flying by them, leaving many, many baffled Korean cyclists in my dust. Apparently, fashion is everything here, when cycling!
and one shot of the endless horizon...
Anyways, so on my way home, I kind of got a bit lost, and turned what was a 30 km ride into something like a 40 km ride. Actually, I'm not sure how long the ride was supposed to be, or how long it ended up being. It may have been closer to 50km? But I'm in pretty bad shape right now, cycling-wise, so I can't judge by the time it takes me... sigh.
So, when was busy getting lost, I did find a foreigners bar in an area called Bangeogin - all the foreigners in that 'hood are not teachers, but Hyundai employees, or workers sent by other multi-nationals to work at Hyundai's many many operations in Dong-gu. It's kind of fun, because they're all really nice men who speak German (and English), so I get to practice my mad German (and Germish) skillz with them. Whodda thunk that I'd be here in the middle of Korea, concerned about how well I'm speaking German! Anyways, this horrible photo is for Liz, to prove that (after our fruitless hunt a couple of weeks ago) I actually made it to the Korean Union bar:
Because all foreigners bars are SO hard to find, we have a theory that it's on purpose, and only those who are worthy - or lucky! - are allowed to find them. Seriously, you would think that bars especially for those who do not really speak the language, who are not originally from the city, area or even country, would be a bit easier to find, would be well-marked, or at least give somewhat useful directions or maps. But no. (Ev and Urs, did you guys find this, too, or are we just directionally challenged?)
Anyways, off to do laundry, ironing and some lesson planning!
Gigi (the mountain bike) and I headed out to Dong-gu, where the Daewangam Songnim (pine forest) is located... it's about 15km south of my place, if you don't get lost. The pine forest was absolutely beautiful, and since I was taking my photos during the magic hour, they are all pretty darned good. (I will not subject you to all 70 photos that I took). Needless to say, in the middle of this heavily industrialized coast, (hyundai heavy industries - one of the most major shipbuilding yards in the world, with the biggest cranes EVER - actually kind of surrounds the pine forest, if you look at a map), there is a breathtaking pine forest. No, not breathtaking because of the pollution. Because of its beauty. Before we get to the beauty, Hyundai heavy industries, which I biked by for, oh, say a kilometer or two (at least).
Here's the actual proof that I made it to one of the 12 scenic sights of Ulsan - and I'm not just faking these shots or something! This sign essentially says that this was an important area in the Silla dynasty, and that kings would spend quality time hanging out here. Also, that the view from the point is the second best view of the East Sea in Korea. (it did not say who ranked it as the second best)
Now, before actually getting to this sign, I went through this small little area of food kiosks and super old-school cheesy fall-fair type stuff, like what's in this photo:
okee, time to see the beoootiful pine forest and the sea! (and hyundai heavy industries - a different campus than in the photograph above)
and trees, trees, trees!
After (b/h)iking through the forest for a bit, I came upon this classic (and huge!) example of the "workout stations" that are everywhere here in Korea.
This stuff all looks very bizarro when you first happen upon it, but it's SO much fun! (I am forbidden to use any of this stuff though - a lot of it is flexibility stuff so because my joints are pretty loose and hyperflexible, if I use it, weird things happen - have happened - like I hyperextend my elbows - something I do sometimes when I bike, too, believe it or not! - or my knee gets really slippery and slidey). Here's a shot of Liz and Chris using one, when we were hiking up a mountain:
The views were absolutely amazing from the pine forest! And the rocks were fascinating, so smooth, and dotted with people fishing (I don't know that I'd trust any fish caught that close to the Hyundai plants but whatever).
(me on the bridge, with Gigi) - did I mention that everyone who cycles here wears pretty hi-tech cycling clothes with really sweet gear? It's really funny, my first time on the trail, I was so impressed that there were all these seemingly hardcore cyclists, and there's me in my skirt and t-shirt flying by them, leaving many, many baffled Korean cyclists in my dust. Apparently, fashion is everything here, when cycling!
and one shot of the endless horizon...
Anyways, so on my way home, I kind of got a bit lost, and turned what was a 30 km ride into something like a 40 km ride. Actually, I'm not sure how long the ride was supposed to be, or how long it ended up being. It may have been closer to 50km? But I'm in pretty bad shape right now, cycling-wise, so I can't judge by the time it takes me... sigh.
So, when was busy getting lost, I did find a foreigners bar in an area called Bangeogin - all the foreigners in that 'hood are not teachers, but Hyundai employees, or workers sent by other multi-nationals to work at Hyundai's many many operations in Dong-gu. It's kind of fun, because they're all really nice men who speak German (and English), so I get to practice my mad German (and Germish) skillz with them. Whodda thunk that I'd be here in the middle of Korea, concerned about how well I'm speaking German! Anyways, this horrible photo is for Liz, to prove that (after our fruitless hunt a couple of weeks ago) I actually made it to the Korean Union bar:
Because all foreigners bars are SO hard to find, we have a theory that it's on purpose, and only those who are worthy - or lucky! - are allowed to find them. Seriously, you would think that bars especially for those who do not really speak the language, who are not originally from the city, area or even country, would be a bit easier to find, would be well-marked, or at least give somewhat useful directions or maps. But no. (Ev and Urs, did you guys find this, too, or are we just directionally challenged?)
Anyways, off to do laundry, ironing and some lesson planning!
Thursday, October 19, 2006
victories all around!
In the battle of Katrina v. The World, it would appear that Katrina is winning.
Woooo! Today, my after-school kids conversation class was amazing! These kids, who are all different levels (and all different grades) REFUSED to speak in English, the first few weeks of the class. I dreaded Tuesdays and Thursdays because of this class. But I have somehow happened upon a method of tricking them into actually speaking English, and speaking TO EACH OTHER. Not just their friends, but to everyone! We played two card-based games today, both from www.mes-english.com (big town and yes/no) and they were both smashing successes. I'm actually planning to use big town a couple more times, building upon the basic game that we played today- and perhaps I'll even get the kids into designing their own card-based game. It's so great to be excited by my classes like this!
The language is getting so much easier, too. Things are just starting to click. Words that I've heard only a couple of times are starting to seep into my vocabulary. It's a great, great thing. I'm still not able to eavesdrop on conversations, but sometimes now, when people speak Korean to me, I can kind of, a little bit, understand the general idea of what they're saying. It's a big thing - it's frustrating to live in isolation sometimes, and I don't want to be one of those expats who comes abroad and hangs out with only expats. Especially when Koreans are (all) so so nice and friendly.
It was explained to me on Saturday night (by some Koreans that we met at the WA Bar, but that's another story) that the underpinnings of Korean society are the seven themes of Confucian thought. (as a sidenote, there is a Confucian school in Gimhae, which is labelled on the map as the "confusion" school. ha ha ha!) Anyways. I've been doing some research on this, it really does help to figure out how people (and the language) work. I'll write more about the concepts once I've got a greater understanding.
Will post more (with photos) soon - tomorrow we're going to Ulsan Park, but I'm going with the Grade 2's (who I don't teach) so I'm not going to know too many of the kids very well...
Woooo! Today, my after-school kids conversation class was amazing! These kids, who are all different levels (and all different grades) REFUSED to speak in English, the first few weeks of the class. I dreaded Tuesdays and Thursdays because of this class. But I have somehow happened upon a method of tricking them into actually speaking English, and speaking TO EACH OTHER. Not just their friends, but to everyone! We played two card-based games today, both from www.mes-english.com (big town and yes/no) and they were both smashing successes. I'm actually planning to use big town a couple more times, building upon the basic game that we played today- and perhaps I'll even get the kids into designing their own card-based game. It's so great to be excited by my classes like this!
The language is getting so much easier, too. Things are just starting to click. Words that I've heard only a couple of times are starting to seep into my vocabulary. It's a great, great thing. I'm still not able to eavesdrop on conversations, but sometimes now, when people speak Korean to me, I can kind of, a little bit, understand the general idea of what they're saying. It's a big thing - it's frustrating to live in isolation sometimes, and I don't want to be one of those expats who comes abroad and hangs out with only expats. Especially when Koreans are (all) so so nice and friendly.
It was explained to me on Saturday night (by some Koreans that we met at the WA Bar, but that's another story) that the underpinnings of Korean society are the seven themes of Confucian thought. (as a sidenote, there is a Confucian school in Gimhae, which is labelled on the map as the "confusion" school. ha ha ha!) Anyways. I've been doing some research on this, it really does help to figure out how people (and the language) work. I'll write more about the concepts once I've got a greater understanding.
Will post more (with photos) soon - tomorrow we're going to Ulsan Park, but I'm going with the Grade 2's (who I don't teach) so I'm not going to know too many of the kids very well...
Saturday, October 14, 2006
a quickie... or not...
They've told us that there are four stages of cultural adjustment when you're living in a foreign country. The first stage is the "honeymoon" stage. Everything is new and shiny and so very interesting! The second stage is "culture shock" - when things just get frustrating, there's a feeling of isolation, homesickness and loads of stress at the little things. The third stage is "gradual adjustment, humour and perspective". That's when the molehills that you've made into mountains return to their natural molehill state. Things get easier and things start to actually make sense. You start understanding the culture. The fourth (and final) stage is "adaptation and biculturalism". It's when the foreign country becomes home. You're able to function fluently in the culture (not necessarily the language, though!).
Those of us who came over through the EPIK program (employed by the government, teaching in middle schools mostly) have started speaking in a bit of a code... "Oh, I'm in stage 2 today!" or "I'm going back and forth between stages 2 and 3 this week...". We're quite lucky that we've got a strong network of native English speakers across Korea who are experiencing the same challenges and the same issues. It really keeps things in perspective and makes it all easier.
I'm somewhere in between stages 1, 2 and 3. I haven't spent much time in stage 2, but I've definitely had my moments! The first time I went grocery shopping was wholly overwhelming. After about 20 minutes of wandering around aimlessly and confused, recognizing (really) only some junk foods (like pringles) and ramen (which I can't eat) I ended up buying an apple and leaving. Fruit is really expensive here, by the way. So much for "an apple a day"! I didn't return for 2 days, but was much better prepared for my next trip - armed with korean recipes and an ingredients list. It took forty-five minutes (most of the items weren't labelled in english, surprise!) but I got everything that I needed to prepare both "ddeok bok ee" and kimch'i fried rice. Welcome to stage 3! I can now navigate the grocery store without fear and (for the most part) understanding what I'm seeing, what it's used for, and what I need or don't need to buy for different dishes. My first cooking experience:
I've been really lucky, too, though. My co-teacher (the teacher who is assigned to assist me with getting set up here in Korea) has been an absolute angel, helping me with all the major stuff (like bank accounts, alien card, cell phone, etc.) I also met two native English teachers here in my little Hogye-dong, within my first week or two of being here. (I have friends - wooo-hooo!). One of them is as new to this whole "Korea" thing as I am - the other one is new to Ulsan but has been teaching in Korea for 6 years or so. The first week or two he was like a cultural reference dictionary for me... still is! It helps A LOT to understand why things are the way they are. (if there is even a reason!) Context is everything.
Learning the language though, I think that's going to be the key to this whole thing. There are people who have lived here for 5 or 10 years that cannot string together more than a rudementary sentence in Korean. It's possible. I can understand how. Learn enough to get what you need done, done. I hold no illusions of any degree of fluency, but i am hoping at the end of this year I will be able to have a simple conversation. It can be wholly overwhelming to sit in the middle of a conversation and have no idea what's being discussed. The teacher who's desk is beside mine, the two of us are "teaching" each other. It's fantastic, instead of giving up if we can't explain ourselves, we (both) use the naver.co.kr dictionary or babelfish or both and find ways to actually talk about _things_. It's not at all fair to expect everyone to speak in English to me all the time. The other day, I was knitting a sock at school (yes, Urs, YOUR sock!!) and teachers kept coming up to me, asking what I was making... yangmal! Sock. Just popped out of my mouth. It really is about the small victories.
One more thing. The foreigners' bars. There's one here, Benchwarmers, that is really fun. But when Liz and I went a couple of weeks ago, it was so weird. We walked in, grabbed a table and a couple of beers. The Tragically Hip was on the stereo, all conversation was in English, the bartender was from Cape Breton. It felt like Canada (but with lousy beer). Nothing - absolutely nothing - would indicate that we were in Korea. So strange. I hesitate to go too often. I actually prefer Korean haunts. Being the only westerner(s), not a big deal. I'd rather remember that I'm here in Korea, yell out "yogi-yo" if I want service, smile, bow, and use my Korean.
(Below: a shot of Liz eating REAL nachos at OBriens - an expat pub in Busan - see the Canadian flag in the background?)
As I write this, I'm debating whether to go downtown tonight ('bout 20 mins by bus), meet up with a whole group of westerners who I don't know very well (or at all) to do the "foreigners' bar" thing, or whether to stay here in Hogye-dong and chill at the local haunt. I think though, after reading what I've written, it's pretty clear that I'd rather "yogi-yo" than have western-style table service.
Those of us who came over through the EPIK program (employed by the government, teaching in middle schools mostly) have started speaking in a bit of a code... "Oh, I'm in stage 2 today!" or "I'm going back and forth between stages 2 and 3 this week...". We're quite lucky that we've got a strong network of native English speakers across Korea who are experiencing the same challenges and the same issues. It really keeps things in perspective and makes it all easier.
I'm somewhere in between stages 1, 2 and 3. I haven't spent much time in stage 2, but I've definitely had my moments! The first time I went grocery shopping was wholly overwhelming. After about 20 minutes of wandering around aimlessly and confused, recognizing (really) only some junk foods (like pringles) and ramen (which I can't eat) I ended up buying an apple and leaving. Fruit is really expensive here, by the way. So much for "an apple a day"! I didn't return for 2 days, but was much better prepared for my next trip - armed with korean recipes and an ingredients list. It took forty-five minutes (most of the items weren't labelled in english, surprise!) but I got everything that I needed to prepare both "ddeok bok ee" and kimch'i fried rice. Welcome to stage 3! I can now navigate the grocery store without fear and (for the most part) understanding what I'm seeing, what it's used for, and what I need or don't need to buy for different dishes. My first cooking experience:
I've been really lucky, too, though. My co-teacher (the teacher who is assigned to assist me with getting set up here in Korea) has been an absolute angel, helping me with all the major stuff (like bank accounts, alien card, cell phone, etc.) I also met two native English teachers here in my little Hogye-dong, within my first week or two of being here. (I have friends - wooo-hooo!). One of them is as new to this whole "Korea" thing as I am - the other one is new to Ulsan but has been teaching in Korea for 6 years or so. The first week or two he was like a cultural reference dictionary for me... still is! It helps A LOT to understand why things are the way they are. (if there is even a reason!) Context is everything.Learning the language though, I think that's going to be the key to this whole thing. There are people who have lived here for 5 or 10 years that cannot string together more than a rudementary sentence in Korean. It's possible. I can understand how. Learn enough to get what you need done, done. I hold no illusions of any degree of fluency, but i am hoping at the end of this year I will be able to have a simple conversation. It can be wholly overwhelming to sit in the middle of a conversation and have no idea what's being discussed. The teacher who's desk is beside mine, the two of us are "teaching" each other. It's fantastic, instead of giving up if we can't explain ourselves, we (both) use the naver.co.kr dictionary or babelfish or both and find ways to actually talk about _things_. It's not at all fair to expect everyone to speak in English to me all the time. The other day, I was knitting a sock at school (yes, Urs, YOUR sock!!) and teachers kept coming up to me, asking what I was making... yangmal! Sock. Just popped out of my mouth. It really is about the small victories.
One more thing. The foreigners' bars. There's one here, Benchwarmers, that is really fun. But when Liz and I went a couple of weeks ago, it was so weird. We walked in, grabbed a table and a couple of beers. The Tragically Hip was on the stereo, all conversation was in English, the bartender was from Cape Breton. It felt like Canada (but with lousy beer). Nothing - absolutely nothing - would indicate that we were in Korea. So strange. I hesitate to go too often. I actually prefer Korean haunts. Being the only westerner(s), not a big deal. I'd rather remember that I'm here in Korea, yell out "yogi-yo" if I want service, smile, bow, and use my Korean.
(Below: a shot of Liz eating REAL nachos at OBriens - an expat pub in Busan - see the Canadian flag in the background?)
As I write this, I'm debating whether to go downtown tonight ('bout 20 mins by bus), meet up with a whole group of westerners who I don't know very well (or at all) to do the "foreigners' bar" thing, or whether to stay here in Hogye-dong and chill at the local haunt. I think though, after reading what I've written, it's pretty clear that I'd rather "yogi-yo" than have western-style table service.
Friday, October 13, 2006
a short summary of the last 6 weeks (part 1)
Please have patience with me. I have never blogged before. I am, however, notorious for incredibly long-and-babbling phone messages, emails, msn messages, text messages, etc. And record-setting run-on sentences. SO if you are expecting brevity when reading my posts, please, I encourage (nay, strongly advise) you to turn back now. I will not be offended! But you will miss all the pretty photos!
Like this one:
This is called "bob" 밥 (more accurately pronounced as "bab" or "bap") the korean word for "rice". Because yes, it is a hamburger. But instead of a sesame seed bun, or whatever north american nutters put their hamburgers on, this burger is sandwiched in between 2 thingys of sticky rice. It's the new thing at Lotteria (the korean/japanese version of mcdonald's) and it pretty much tastes how it looks, maybe a little bit better. Great food for traveling (?) but I prefer kimbap any day... (the korean version of a california roll). And kimbap is only 1,000 won for a roll - that's about the equivilant of $1.00. Woooo!
Continuting on the subject of food - I've had the pleasure of trying many many different foods, and some foods that are the same, but just more fun here. For example:
Now, yes, that's shrimp. They don't peel it here, and koreans are totally able to peel them gracefully, with dignity, and using chopsticks (or in their mouths). Me, I prefer to play with my shrimp... I mean, it still has its eyes on it... so it can talk to you!! And you can make it talk to your dinner companions, funny voices!
This particular meal was at a korean raw fish restaurant. I got to play with LOTS of my food at this dinner, and some of it played back with me. Check out the following footage:
Um, in explaination, yes, I ate that and it was quite good. As you can tell, it was also quite fresh. The following footage shows exactly how I managed to "chase" the octopus. Also, when eating this you need to chew very very well, because it DOES suction to your mouth (which tickles) and you can cholk if it suctions to your throat on the way down.
That's Tom in the video, he's another cannuck who lives here in Hogye-dong (a neighbourhood in Ulsan).
Right. So since arriving in lovely Ulsan, I've been getting up at 6:45 or 7:00am every morning. I've been leaving for work at 7:50am, and arriving, bright and ready to go, at 8:10am. I swear, I'm not some Katrina-like clone, it's really me. I'm teaching in Cheonguk Middle School, in Northern Ulsan. My classes are all Grade 1 (which is Grade 7 in the Canadian school system) and they are one-part adorable and one-part teenager. There are approximately 40-45 kids per class. (aaaarrrrggghhh!) They are fascinated by my piercing(s) and will literally walk up to me (or say to me in class) "Teacher! Piercing!". How they know the word "piercing" is beyond me, but then again, I've learned that the correct response in Korean, to answer all of their questions about it is: "anapayo". That means "didn't hurt". Or "not sick".
On to the subject of Korean phrases I have mastered. Basic greetings (anyonghasseyo, etc.), thank you (kamsahamnida), I'm sorry (myanhamnida), A pint please (seng mek-ju chuseyo), two pints please (seng mek-ju du-gey chuseyo), and how much is that (oemayayyo). I am trying to learn, but it feels a bit like I'm learning in isolation, believe it or not, because my korean is not good enough to actually (really) make a sentence, just to parrot phrases. I probably have about 100 words in my vocab?
Ulsan has "12 scenic sights" that they advertise in all of their tourism literature. I am aiming this year to see all 12 - that's one per month. So far, I've only seen the "jeonju coast - black pebble beach", on the coast of the east sea. It's lovely, but hardly something to write home about. (well, I guess it was something to write home about because it did get a mention here!) I'm a bit concerned that they call it a "black pebble beach" too, because the pebbles were not black. There were some black pebbles, granted, but more grey ones than black. It was a lovely afternoon though, my co-teacher and I just sat on the rocks, looking out to sea and talking about all sorts of things. I have no photos, so I will have to revisit it... perhaps in the winter... beaches are always so dramatic in the wintertime!
Since landing in Ulsan, I've gone up to Busan (the next city over, which is about the same size as Toronto) 3 or so times. Busan is a beautiful city... these shots are both at Haeundae beach (different days - the first one is actually taken on the beach, and the second is of Liz and Ryan, who we randomly met in the subway in Busan - he wasn't up to anything that afternoon so we invited him along with us.
Anyways, Liz and Ryan and I hiked all along the trails by Haeundae. You can see the little mountains in the background of the first picture, that's where we were hiking. Haeundae is apparently the longest beach in the country, and in the summertime it fills up with sunbathers and swimmers practically stacked on top of each other. My photos don't show it, but we really are still in the heart of the city at this point. We were able to take the subway here. Also, Haeundae is where Liz and I are going to swim with sharks, sometime in the new year. Seriously. At the aquarium.
But I think my favourite spot so far in Busan is Gwangalli beach, which we discovered at dusk. Twas a wonderful evening, just discovering things and enjoying the vibe. We set off firecrackers on the beach, ate silkworm larvae that we bought from a food cart (see photo below), drank soju and Chris shook hands with an octopus (a live one!).
We spent the night in a jinjeban (?) - a korean sauna - on the beach. It's the strangest thing. for 7,000 won ($7) you get a locker, two towels and an outfit that looks like a gym uniform. Had we not been tipsy, and had it not been 4:30 am when we checked in, I would have had the presence of mind to take photos of Angela and I, we looked like we were in high school phys. ed class, with our matching teeshirts and shorts! So there's a girls floor, and a boys floor, and a floor in between, where people go to sleep or nap. The girls floor and boys floor are essentially public baths... everyone's walking around in various states of undress (or completely nude) and hopping in and out of showers, saunas and swimming pools. The co-ed napping floor was the strangest thing I've seen in a while... imagine walking into a room at 5am, and seeing more than 100 koreans wearing the same clothes (boys had blue accents on their gym uniforms, girls had pink), all sleeping whereever they were able to pull up a patch of floor, covered in identical blankets. I was waiting for someone to bring out the koolaid or something.
Gwangalli beach also had live fish markets that were several stories high:
The video doesn't really do the "discount fish market" (as the name translated) justice... the idea is that you select your dinner from the live fish vendors, they skin it for you (and do a bit of prep, but not much), and you take your fish upstairs to eat. I love raw fish and I'm quite looking forward to trying this out, but some of those fish were a bit peculiar-looking...
The same weekend that we discovered Gwangalli beach, we also checked out the Busan Biennale, at the Museum of Modern Art. There were some quite interesting and quite political pieces. Here's a shot of Angela enjoying the art with her eyes closed.
Enough on Busan though. It's a fantastic city, and it happens to be right in between where Liz, Angela and I are all living, so we do go often and you'll certainly be hearing more about it!
Next time I write, I'll talk more about Hogye-dong, Ulsan and the nukes. Seriously though, there's about 4 or 5 posts on Liz's blog that talk about what I was up to all last week - so visit, she's much less babblier than I am, and takes terrific photographs! www.documentarist.blogspot.com
Like this one:
This is called "bob" 밥 (more accurately pronounced as "bab" or "bap") the korean word for "rice". Because yes, it is a hamburger. But instead of a sesame seed bun, or whatever north american nutters put their hamburgers on, this burger is sandwiched in between 2 thingys of sticky rice. It's the new thing at Lotteria (the korean/japanese version of mcdonald's) and it pretty much tastes how it looks, maybe a little bit better. Great food for traveling (?) but I prefer kimbap any day... (the korean version of a california roll). And kimbap is only 1,000 won for a roll - that's about the equivilant of $1.00. Woooo!Continuting on the subject of food - I've had the pleasure of trying many many different foods, and some foods that are the same, but just more fun here. For example:
Now, yes, that's shrimp. They don't peel it here, and koreans are totally able to peel them gracefully, with dignity, and using chopsticks (or in their mouths). Me, I prefer to play with my shrimp... I mean, it still has its eyes on it... so it can talk to you!! And you can make it talk to your dinner companions, funny voices!This particular meal was at a korean raw fish restaurant. I got to play with LOTS of my food at this dinner, and some of it played back with me. Check out the following footage:
Um, in explaination, yes, I ate that and it was quite good. As you can tell, it was also quite fresh. The following footage shows exactly how I managed to "chase" the octopus. Also, when eating this you need to chew very very well, because it DOES suction to your mouth (which tickles) and you can cholk if it suctions to your throat on the way down.
That's Tom in the video, he's another cannuck who lives here in Hogye-dong (a neighbourhood in Ulsan).
Right. So since arriving in lovely Ulsan, I've been getting up at 6:45 or 7:00am every morning. I've been leaving for work at 7:50am, and arriving, bright and ready to go, at 8:10am. I swear, I'm not some Katrina-like clone, it's really me. I'm teaching in Cheonguk Middle School, in Northern Ulsan. My classes are all Grade 1 (which is Grade 7 in the Canadian school system) and they are one-part adorable and one-part teenager. There are approximately 40-45 kids per class. (aaaarrrrggghhh!) They are fascinated by my piercing(s) and will literally walk up to me (or say to me in class) "Teacher! Piercing!". How they know the word "piercing" is beyond me, but then again, I've learned that the correct response in Korean, to answer all of their questions about it is: "anapayo". That means "didn't hurt". Or "not sick".
On to the subject of Korean phrases I have mastered. Basic greetings (anyonghasseyo, etc.), thank you (kamsahamnida), I'm sorry (myanhamnida), A pint please (seng mek-ju chuseyo), two pints please (seng mek-ju du-gey chuseyo), and how much is that (oemayayyo). I am trying to learn, but it feels a bit like I'm learning in isolation, believe it or not, because my korean is not good enough to actually (really) make a sentence, just to parrot phrases. I probably have about 100 words in my vocab?
Ulsan has "12 scenic sights" that they advertise in all of their tourism literature. I am aiming this year to see all 12 - that's one per month. So far, I've only seen the "jeonju coast - black pebble beach", on the coast of the east sea. It's lovely, but hardly something to write home about. (well, I guess it was something to write home about because it did get a mention here!) I'm a bit concerned that they call it a "black pebble beach" too, because the pebbles were not black. There were some black pebbles, granted, but more grey ones than black. It was a lovely afternoon though, my co-teacher and I just sat on the rocks, looking out to sea and talking about all sorts of things. I have no photos, so I will have to revisit it... perhaps in the winter... beaches are always so dramatic in the wintertime!
Since landing in Ulsan, I've gone up to Busan (the next city over, which is about the same size as Toronto) 3 or so times. Busan is a beautiful city... these shots are both at Haeundae beach (different days - the first one is actually taken on the beach, and the second is of Liz and Ryan, who we randomly met in the subway in Busan - he wasn't up to anything that afternoon so we invited him along with us.
Anyways, Liz and Ryan and I hiked all along the trails by Haeundae. You can see the little mountains in the background of the first picture, that's where we were hiking. Haeundae is apparently the longest beach in the country, and in the summertime it fills up with sunbathers and swimmers practically stacked on top of each other. My photos don't show it, but we really are still in the heart of the city at this point. We were able to take the subway here. Also, Haeundae is where Liz and I are going to swim with sharks, sometime in the new year. Seriously. At the aquarium.But I think my favourite spot so far in Busan is Gwangalli beach, which we discovered at dusk. Twas a wonderful evening, just discovering things and enjoying the vibe. We set off firecrackers on the beach, ate silkworm larvae that we bought from a food cart (see photo below), drank soju and Chris shook hands with an octopus (a live one!).
We spent the night in a jinjeban (?) - a korean sauna - on the beach. It's the strangest thing. for 7,000 won ($7) you get a locker, two towels and an outfit that looks like a gym uniform. Had we not been tipsy, and had it not been 4:30 am when we checked in, I would have had the presence of mind to take photos of Angela and I, we looked like we were in high school phys. ed class, with our matching teeshirts and shorts! So there's a girls floor, and a boys floor, and a floor in between, where people go to sleep or nap. The girls floor and boys floor are essentially public baths... everyone's walking around in various states of undress (or completely nude) and hopping in and out of showers, saunas and swimming pools. The co-ed napping floor was the strangest thing I've seen in a while... imagine walking into a room at 5am, and seeing more than 100 koreans wearing the same clothes (boys had blue accents on their gym uniforms, girls had pink), all sleeping whereever they were able to pull up a patch of floor, covered in identical blankets. I was waiting for someone to bring out the koolaid or something.Gwangalli beach also had live fish markets that were several stories high:
The video doesn't really do the "discount fish market" (as the name translated) justice... the idea is that you select your dinner from the live fish vendors, they skin it for you (and do a bit of prep, but not much), and you take your fish upstairs to eat. I love raw fish and I'm quite looking forward to trying this out, but some of those fish were a bit peculiar-looking...
The same weekend that we discovered Gwangalli beach, we also checked out the Busan Biennale, at the Museum of Modern Art. There were some quite interesting and quite political pieces. Here's a shot of Angela enjoying the art with her eyes closed.Enough on Busan though. It's a fantastic city, and it happens to be right in between where Liz, Angela and I are all living, so we do go often and you'll certainly be hearing more about it!
Next time I write, I'll talk more about Hogye-dong, Ulsan and the nukes. Seriously though, there's about 4 or 5 posts on Liz's blog that talk about what I was up to all last week - so visit, she's much less babblier than I am, and takes terrific photographs! www.documentarist.blogspot.com
Tuesday, October 03, 2006
... cell phone, blog, what next?
ok, people, I now own a cell phone which I LOVE. I have just started a blog. I msn people all the time. I have come to Korea and apparently am a shell of my former modern-technological-communications-hating self. I daresay I am no longer a luddite. That's right, you wouldn't even recognize me - but it sure is easy to track me down and find out where I'm at/what I'm doing! (here's a photo of me at Busan Tower - after 3 weeks of cell phone use - do you recognize me?)
anyhow. Will soon be uploading three short films and writing more about some of the nuttier things that have happened here in Korea... (you no longer have to check Liz's blog for random photos that may or may not involve me! woooo! but still check out Liz's blog, eh!)
anyhow. Will soon be uploading three short films and writing more about some of the nuttier things that have happened here in Korea... (you no longer have to check Liz's blog for random photos that may or may not involve me! woooo! but still check out Liz's blog, eh!)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
